No Stamp! No Stamp!

Filed under: , , by: Coleman

So I decided to cross the border from Jordan to Israel. Not a problem because both countries get along relatively well and the borders are open. The problem is that to get into Syria, I can't have anything that indicates I was in Israel (or "Occupied Palestine"). No sheckels; no luggage tags; nothing with Hebrew or a made in Israel sticker at all.
A lot of travelers get around this by having immigration stamp a separate piece of paper. This way it looks like you never went into Israel and you can still get into Syria. I was a little nervous because I thought it relied on too many people bending the rules. And I still think so, but it made more sense for me to go to Israel now rather than fly from Turkey to Israel.
So I get to the Jordanian side of the border and hand over my passport making ti very clear that I don't want a stamp. The guy says no problem, and takes out a small piece of paper. No problem.
Then the shift change comes and the new guy takes my passport and has a stamp in his hand. I yell "NO stamp!" We get into a short discussion of why no stamp in the passport, and eventually he just puts it on a piece of paper.
I wasn't too worried about the Jordanian side. I didn't think they would have a problem bending the rules. It was the Israeli side I was worried about. As much as Syria doesn't want people with Israeli stamps headed into Syria, I didn't think Israeli immigration wanted to hear that I was going into Syria.
Once I got off the bus on the Israeli side, I proceeded to tell every single official looking person, whether they took my passport or not, "No stamp." It was kind of absurd. Literally everyone. Once I finally got to immigration, I handed over my passport repeating "no stamp, no stamp."
If I was going through airport security, I'm pretty sure I would have been interrogated. I was that nervous. I signed my name like a 5 year old. I got into a long discussion with Israeli immigration about why I don't want a stamp. About my travel history etc.
Eventually I got through without the stamp, but while I was waiting there, it was pretty nerve-wracking.

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